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Skin Health Skin Health Basics

Caution at the Cosmetics Counter


Medical Reviewer:

Kimberly Bazar, MD

Medically Reviewed On: May 07, 2004

Anyone who has wandered through the maze of cosmetics in their local department store or drugstore knows that there are thousands of products that promise flawless skin. Unfortunately for certain people, these same products can lead to an unsightly allergic reaction called contact dermatitis. So how do you make sure the products you choose will help put your best face forward?

Unfortunately, avoiding allergic reactions isn’t as simple as choosing products labeled "hypoallergenic" or “all natural.” Below, Dr. Frances J. Storrs, a professor of dermatology emerita at Oregon Health and Science University in Portland who specializes in contact dermatitis, explains how to wisely choose your skin products.

What kinds of allergic reactions to skin products do people usually have?
They usually develop contact dermatitis, which is the allergic reaction similar to poison oak or poison ivy. As they begin to use a product, their skin becomes more and more red. They might also develop what doctors call vesicles which are tiny blisters that become crusty and ooze and then spread to other parts of the body. The dermatitis might spread up an arm or to the whole face or the eyelids might be involved. Depending on how strong an allergen you’re dealing with, you may get an allergic eczema, which is an itchy rash. The allergic reaction just gets worse and worse until the person stops using the product.

Who is most likely to have an allergic reaction to a skin product?
Occasionally allergic reactions occur in people with normal skin, but more often then not, they occur in people in which the skin barrier has been broken. This includes someone with a little bit of flaking on their face—something doctors call seborrheic dermatitis—or someone with eczema or someone who just has dry skin.

What products cause allergic reactions?
Lotions and creams, foundations, moisturizers, sunscreens, shampoos, salon hair care products and nail care products are most likely to cause allergic reactions.

What ingredients in skin care products are most likely to cause an allergic reaction?
It depends on the product, but the most common problems are caused by preservatives. Any agent that contains water requires a preservative to keep bacteria or fungi from growing in it. The most common preservatives associated with allergy are those that release formaldehyde. A good example of that is quaternium 15 found in various lotions or creams, shampoos and cleansing agents. There’s also a collection of moisturizing lotions that are preserved with a chemical called methyldibromo glutaronitrile.

Parabens are another type of preservative that are used in thousands of products, but it causes fewer allergic reactions. If you are allergic to any chemicals, then it is important to read the label and make sure they are not included.

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